My trip improved a lot today. I took a taxi to Red Hook and the ferry across to St. John, where I negotiated a tour (with a group of people). Top sights included some beautuful beaches plus the Annenberg Sugar Mill ruins. Best of all, the National Park Visitor Center was open because the shop is run by the Friends of the National Park. So, despite the shutdown (which does furlough the rangers), I was able to stamp the passport book and buy a sticker. I also bought a patch.